Archivarius
Member since Sep-12-02
31 posts, |
Feb-07-03, 04:35 AM () |
 |
"Strecthing and Priming raw linen"
 |
Strecthing and Priming raw linen
« on: 15. May 2002 at 15:10 »
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Mr.Antonov, how does this procedure for stretching and priming linen sound?
1) I use hevy duty stretcher bar that I assembled myself. Then, I cut the raw linen four inches longer in dimension than the future painting. I center the weave as closely as possible to the stretcher bars.
2) Using my hands, I pull one side(the shortest side) of the linen taut over the stretcher bar. Using a hammer, I tack the center with a tack. I repeat on all four sides. I don'3) Once a tack is attached to each side, I start adding tacks at two inch intervals from the center(this is done alternately). I leave three inches untacked around the corners. This is repeated on all sides.
4)I neately fold the corners and finish tacking the linen. I also put a few tacks on the back of the linen. The linen is free from folds once stretched. Then, I use a razor blade to remove irregularities in the linen.
Priming_
Once the linen is stretched I size it with rabbit skin glue. To make the glue I soak 1part glue in 10-12 parts water overnight(by volume). I gently heat the mixture in a double boiler and apply warm to the stretched linen with a large flat bristle brush. I also side the sides. Once this layer dries, I put on another coat. The reason I put on two light coats is that the oil ground will leak through the linen if one coat is applied. However, If I'm priming cotton one layer of glue is sufficient. I allow this to dry a day.
The following day I make the oil primer by diluting lead white with a little turpentine. I apply one layer using your priming methods. I allow it to dry two weeks before putting on the drawing and Imprimatura. Also, with this type of ground I found it necesarry to rub the canvas with an onion before applying the imprimatura.
Alexei Antonov
Administrator Re: Strecthing and Priming raw linen
« Reply #1 on: 16. May 2002 at 19:52 » --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bravo, Qwer:
Looks just like a textbook! If you will tell me that your tacks are of bronze or copper I will be knocked down.
The most available sources and competent teachers will approve the use of animal glue sizing. But from my experience of studying originals in several Russian museums, it seems that some lead oil priming canvases are in wonderful shape and others are cracked, it has nothing to do with their age. According to my personal opinion the use of gelatin, fish glue or rabbit skin mostly contributed to that.
The less amount of good condition canvases have the tracks of priming with liquid umbra on the back.
I did few experiments with the dried umbra sizing layer prior to Lead White Priming. And here is what gave me the best results.
Make a solution:
1.The canvas is soaked with water and the face side
is scuffed with pumice stone
2. Then, while the canvas still wet, with fast movements we cover the canvas with the solution: Burnt Umbra with a small amount of Prussian Blue, terpentine and a little bit of damar varnish (milk consistensy).
Don't worry if some amount of paint will penetrate to the back side. It can be easily removed by dry brush. When it will dry (approximately in a week) you can do priming with palette knife.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
