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Subject: "WIP help"

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Study and Teach Fine Art Techniques Charcoal and Pencil Drawings - Techniques by J.D. Hillberry Topic #146

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sgreeves
Member since Nov-15-02
75 posts,

Nov-20-02, 01:47 PM ()

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"WIP help"

Hi,
I'm very envious of the talent I see in this forum and I believe I might be in over my head. Your comments on my first post were kind and encouraging, so here I go with something more realistic (I hope).

This is a drawing of my daughter. I am trying to use the techniques found in "Drawing Realistic Textures in Pencil" by JD Hillberry.

If you can help I would appreciate any advice and direction. While I've done line art for a long time, I've only tried realistic drawing for about 3 months.

So I'm posting my drawing and I'm beginning with the eyes and with your guidance will procede from there in hopes of improving what I need to know.

My paper has a lot of tooth to it, it is simply from a sketch book, I'm using a Staedtler mechanical pencil .07 HB lead. I'm looking for information on blending, tonality, and order.

Thanks

Steve

Bill_Johnston
Member since Nov-9-02
143 posts, 5 feedbacks,

Nov-20-02, 02:18 PM ()

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1. "RE: WIP help"

Hi Steve, I don't know why you think you are in over your head, your drawing is excellent so far. I am particularly impressed with the eyes.

While I can't point out any specific areas in you drawing to help you with (it looks great to me), I will throw out a few general things that seem to work best for me:

1) Always use high quality paper. I always use Bristol (smooth or plate). The surface is very durable and I think the smoother finish gives me more control in blending, lifting, and error correction. Also, if you want your drawing to last, you want to make sure that you are using acid-free archival quality paper. I always use the best materials I can afford.

2) I build up my values gradually in layers, blending in between each layer. This is time consuming, but really adds to the depth of the finished drawing.

3) I use a very sharp point when doing the details. This lets me produce razor sharp edges and darker values in small areas (eyes). I don't think you can achieve that degree of sharpness with .07 lead. I use mechanical lead holders (drafting pencils)with drafting leads, sharpened with a lead pointer.

4) Kneaded rubber is as essential to me as my pencil.

Bill

sgreeves
Member since Nov-15-02
75 posts,

Nov-20-02, 02:32 PM ()

2. "RE: WIP help"

Thanks Bill,
I appreciate the tips and this weekend I plan to get some high quality paper. Keep in mind that this will be the first time I've tried something on paper other than computer paper. Since most of my drawings are a hobby and just for me (keeps me from going postal).

I'm not quite sure how the layering process work, I understand the build up and the depth the layer. But do you start with a very light and vague area and add detail as you go. Or do you do all the detail and then blend it together and then put the detail back in with the next layer?

Steve

sgreeves
Member since Nov-15-02
75 posts,

Nov-21-02, 02:35 PM ()

3. "RE: WIP help"

I'm still at it, but I was wondering about the line around the cheek and chin. Is it to heavy, do I erase it out, blend it in or what?

Also, are there any tips about drawing blonde hair???

Steve

absolute

Member since Aug-24-02
895 posts, 12 feedbacks,

Nov-21-02, 06:55 PM ()

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4. "RE: WIP help"

hey thats really looks great steve!...i cant help you out much with blending cause im still learning myself,...but one thing i noticed was that paper makes a huge difference,...i just got some watercolor paper thats extremly smooth,..and it still holds the graphite,....i haven't done a whole drawing on it yet ,just a few small goofy sketches to see how it blends,...plain newspaper seems to make great blenders cause its so soft,..but still holds an edge.,..ive drew on computer paper a lot,..and i noticed it doesnt blend very good...it seems smooth....but still has too much tooth ,
this water color paper is really nice..i can lightly add graphite and it blends away nice and solid ,,and smooth...almost everyone in the forum likes bristol smooth but me,so you should try it out ,for blending its probably as good as it gets,..but im not good at blending.

www.geocities.com/woodart211

Melissa_M

Member since Aug-23-02
326 posts, 6 feedbacks,

Nov-22-02, 03:33 PM ()

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5. "RE: WIP help"

I'm still learning, too, but I think the line is too dark/harsh around her chin and if would be good, perhaps, to erase it (at least partly) and shade in around the chin, making it darker towards that line. Shading takes patience--it's a good idea to shade in several layers, and use Q-tips/tissue to blend it with (those are probably the best things to blend skin-tones with).
Don't be afraid to add contrast. I see you're adding darker tones, but leave/add in some lighter ones, too. So far you're doing good!

- Melissa (aka: Honey Bee)

sgreeves
Member since Nov-15-02
75 posts,

Nov-22-02, 08:37 PM ()

6. "RE: WIP help"

Thanks for the comments.
I erased the chin line and re-worked it with shading and it does looks better to me.

Does anyone have trouble with the paper rubbing up when you blend several layers or am I doing something wrong?

Steve

Melissa_M

Member since Aug-23-02
326 posts, 6 feedbacks,

Nov-22-02, 11:37 PM ()

7. "RE: WIP help"

Looking good, Steve.
The chin seems to have changed its shape...make sure you have it like the photo.
Of course, how you style your drawing is up to you--whether you want it more realistic or more of a line-drawing. I almost liked the chin better with a stronger line, but that's just me, I guess, and I know I was the one who told you to change it. lol I don't know, it does look good the way you have it now, too. Sometimes I don't even know what I'm saying, if I'm making any sense or giving the right advice!

I don't know what to say about the rubbing, either....I think my drawing of P. Diana is starting to do that in places I've erased and blended too much.

- Melissa (aka: Honey Bee)

Lita Dawn

Member since Oct-14-02
10 posts, 2 feedbacks,

Nov-23-02, 00:43 AM ()

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8. "RE: WIP help"

Nice work. It's especially fun to watch your work progress through images. I hope you'll continue posting them.
A number of people have already commented on the wisdom of using quality archival surfaces. They usually stand up to blending and whatever stress you put them through. There's nothing worse than having your paper give out before you do.
Photo's sometimes flatten an image and create unrealistic shadows that are too sharp or too dull. They can deaden your form.
As an example, you may want to extend or blend your shadow at the corner of her palm where she supports her chin. The neck is afterall, a cylinder. Imagine your way across its surface.

litadawn

mike sibley
Member since Nov-19-02
237 posts, 6 feedbacks,

Nov-23-02, 10:40 AM ()

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9. "RE: WIP help"

Quote Also, are there any tips about drawing blonde hair???

Well, I don't draw people, I draw dogs... and lots of hair! And some of it blonde.

Blonde hair is light with strong highlights but the shadows are not as deep toned as darker hair. Before you start any drawing look to see where your very darkest tone is going to appear - this is the tone against which all others are going to be balanced. If you don't have a really deep tone present (assuming you're working from source photos) then invent one. If you can establish that one dark tone then the comparatively lighter shadows within the depths of the hair will suggest that it is blonde. Coupled with strong highlights this should do the trick.

Blonde hair is also finer so individual strands are less likely to be readily apparent.

MIKE

www.SibleyFineArt.com
www.Starving-Artists.net

sgreeves
Member since Nov-15-02
75 posts,

Nov-23-02, 02:11 PM ()

10. "RE: WIP help"

Thanks for you input, I know it's hard to decide on things that are in some ways only slightly changed. I tried to rework it by shading the chin and neck area a little different.

Thanks for your thought, they really have helped. I'm sure it will come in handy when I begin my next piece.

Steve

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