Home - Brush quality
Home The Artist Workshop Community Contact View Cart Newsletter    
ALEXEI ANTONOV PAINTINGS
painting_Birth_of_the_colorPortrait_Ninapainting_Applespainting_ants_paradisepainting_Bavarian_motifpainting_Bouquetpainting_Candy_boxpainting_Rose_in_the_freshnosPortrait_Tanya
Subject: "Brush quality"  
         
Study and Teach Fine Art Techniques Oil Painting Techniques by A. L. Antonov Topic #17
Reading page 1 of 1 pages
Aviationpainter click here to view user rating
Member since Dec-3-02
4 posts, 1 feedbacks,
Dec-03-02, 02:39 AM ()
Click to EMail Aviationpainter Click to send private message to Aviationpainter  
"Brush quality"
 
   Hello everyone: I am new to this site, and may I say it is awesome! I am an aviation artist using oils. I am self taught, but I own a few instruction books. Mostly the tecniques discussed in the books dont pertain to me. I am a sharp focussed realist, and do not use very much paint. I currently am using synthetic brushes, but I am acheiving the desired result. My questions are, should I be using sable brushes? After I am finished painting I was my brushes very well and apply a small amount of conditioner to them to maintain their form. The other quuestion I have is, do the brush soaps really remove the buildup of paint in your brush? I would appreciate your input. Paul Sellers


 
tito
Member since Sep-6-02
5 posts,
Dec-15-02, 12:13 PM ()
Click to EMail tito Click to send private message to tito  
1. "RE: Brush quality"
 
   The type of brush depends on the technique you're using. Since you said that you're obtaining the desired results with the brushes you use, why change?
Classical technique (smooth finish) requieres soft brushes to apply the glazes over a carefully prepared underpainting. I use Kolinsky (the softest of sable) for this technique.
Alla prima painting, which is on one intention without preparatory underpaintings, looks better with the brush strokes showing. For this I use bristle brushes only.
I don't use synthetics because they don't hold enough paint. Natural fibers are better but they are more expensive, however you should always use the best materials which are more economical in the long run and will produce the best results.
I clean the brushes with "The Masters" brush cleaner soap after rising them first with turpentine. Other people don't use paint thinner to rinse them, they use vegetable oil and dishwasher soap afterwards. What you have to know is that you can get to Rome by different roads, meaning there is no single way to paint or clean brushes.

tito


 
Aviationpainter click here to view user rating
Member since Dec-3-02
4 posts, 1 feedbacks,
Dec-16-02, 11:41 PM ()
Click to EMail Aviationpainter Click to send private message to Aviationpainter  
2. "RE: Brush quality"
 
   Thanks for the advice, I read so many different methods of care for both synthetic and sable brushes that it can make your head spin. When I am finished painting for the day I wash my brushes out in a mild hand soap ( wich I read somewhere) and then apply a small amount of conditioner to the brush. In sable brushes I read that a conditioner is a good idea because the turpentine strips the hair of its natural lubricants and dries out the brush. I applied that tecnique to my brushes although they are synthetic and it seems to work ok. My main concern was that I was doing something that would prevent me from utilizing the full performance of the brush:)


 
verdaccio click here to view user rating
Member since Dec-15-02
122 posts, 1 feedbacks,
Dec-23-02, 04:36 AM ()
Click to EMail verdaccio Click to send private message to verdaccio Click to send message via AOL IM  
3. "RE: Brush quality"
 
my opinion is its good to have a few natural hair brushes, one large badger or squirrel blender, and a couple red sable small falts, becasue they have been the best for finishing, from my experience.

i often dont wash brushes with soap if i know i am going to use them next day. (within 8 hours) just wipe them clean and gently work a little linseed (not stand) oil in. i guess if youve used any sort of drying agent in the medium this would be a very bad idea.
but i have found that every day soap kills the brush faster, and i find this is more true of my cheaper brushes. the most important thing is to use lukewarm or coolwater rather than hot which expands the ferrule (which im sure you know, but no one's said it yet, so maybe it will save someone else a big "oh NO"

. i use the pink soap. i dont use paint thinner or turp to clean them, becasue an old instructor told me this is bad for the brush also. everything seems to be bad for the brush.

the conditionr thing is intersting. i hadnt thought of that. does it change any of the brushes ability to hold paint with conditioner residue on it? wouldnt it repel the fat in the linseed oil? or do you make sure to turp/medium it up first before using again?

jai guru deva om


 
Aviationpainter click here to view user rating
Member since Dec-3-02
4 posts, 1 feedbacks,
Dec-23-02, 10:36 PM ()
Click to EMail Aviationpainter Click to send private message to Aviationpainter  
4. "RE: Brush quality"
 
   Thanks for the Tips, Ill keep that in mind. As far as the conditioner is concerned, I will work a small amount into the brush and the next time I use the brush I rinse out the Conditioner. If anything it keeps the shape of the brush.


 


Powered by 2checkout.com (Accept Credit Cards Company) Copyright © 2007 artpapa. All Rights Reserved.